Ämne: Hur du ansluter insprutarna?

[alf]

Vi välkomnar och jag ber om ursäkt om jag felaktigt son, men med hjälp av Google Översätt.
 Kort sagt, försöker starta en B200-motor är från 1986, sköt och misslyckas. Anledningen? När du tar bort de filer jag har numrerade i ordning injektionen och om functoneaza 2 kryddnejlikor 2 eller alla på en gång. Jag bytte sementii, vevlager, packningar och kunde starta motorn bränsle - och + varje insprutare manuellt.
 Tack.
 

[FREJ]

Hello Alf! Do you speak and write in English?

[alf]

  yes, and please excuse me if i was totally incomprehensible.
So, i`we change the piston rings, rod bearings and of course head-gasket. The gap between the rings is around 0.40 on all pistons/rings, oil pump is ok and also is the fuel pump. Now, my problem is that when i dismantled the engine, i forgot to put a stiker on each injector jack, in order to know how they were connected. Obviously, now it does not start. But i`we tried a litlle trick: i put the ignition key on on, fuel pump on and then i feed each injector with - and + a few times directly from the battery. And it started for about 10 seconds- it has compression.
Please tell me, is there a precise order to connect the injectors - two by two or it does not matter and i`ll have to look in another place to find my starting problem?     
Thank you.

[alf]

Is it ok the firing order on my dizzy cap/ ht leads?



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[Bergvik]

Check so you have the cold starting injector and heat temperature sensor connected as they should be, it is possible to connect them to each other, and then the car wont start.

[FREJ]

Great alf, Google translate works but on technical terms it is not so good 

The injectors are all connected in parallel to the same + and -
So there is not a special order for connecting them.

So you have to look after another possible fault.
Because of the success in starting with "hijacked" injectors there should be a problem with your injection-system/fuel supply somewhere 

And yes, your firing order on your excellent photos is correct! (1, 3, 4, 2)


Good tip there from Girder though! Sounds like a possible mistake that is easy to do when doing what you have done with the motor!

[alf]

  I love you guys!
I`ve checked this morning how the cold start injector and thermal time switch were connected, and they were hangin in the air. I flipped the coin (i didn`t knew also which wire goes where), ignition on and SUCCES form the first try.
But i have another problem- the big pulley connected to the end of the crankshaft wobbles a LOT. I know it can be mounted only in one position (with that pin), the mating surfaces were clean, the screw was tight.

[alf]

  please tell me if it`s ok to install a B 19 lighter front pulley instead a heavy B200 one. i cannot use no more the original pulley, and i can`t find another one to replace (not even from scrap yard). the pulley from B 19 needs some trimming in order to fit, but that`s not the problem.
My biggest concerned is the way the engine will run and rev with lets say 1 kilo pulley instead of almost 3 kilos- the original pulley.
What should i do?




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[FREJ]

Wow, a loss of 2 kilos in rotating weight is not bad at all! I would be just glad over that fact!

So if it fits and have the same outer diameter I say GO FOR IT!

[alf]

Hello again! The front pulley didn`t had anything broken, it was my fault    :when i have dismantled the engine apart, i though i`ve lost the locking pin from the big pulley, so i made one from a screw (with my grinder).
But, the locking pin is in fact one piece with the crank distribution wheel (from one side). So, each time when i have tried to mount the pulley, those two pins kept hitting one against each other, causing that terrible vobbling.

Here`s something good, it is not my post, i just made copy/ paste from www.volvo300mania.com:

Some trivial info about the crank differencies for those who might be interested.

B2XX -series engines have eight counter balances on the crank and the crank is cast one. Older B2X engines have only four counter balances but the crank is stronger, forged steel. Also one major difference between these engines is that b2xx -series ones are so called "low friction" engines. Volvo came up with the "great idea" of making the B2xx -series engines piston guided instead of crank guided. This means that the con rod is guided/centered from the piston end and there's a notable side clearance at the crank end of the con rod bearings. Normally clearances at the crank end of the con rod are made as tight as possible and the con rod is guided/centered from the crank.

This piston guided -setup works very well with the high revving race engines (idea was probably copied from racing scene) and does infact lower friction losses in those but it didn't turn out to be as good with the redblocks where the torque comes at rather low revs.. Problem with this kind of setup is that if the crank get's any play or vibration it will cause the con rods to fail/bend very quickly because of the rather large side clearances at the crank end of the con rod (this is also one of the main reasons why Volvo switched back to thicker con rods with the b2xx -series engines also after year -90 and switched to larger big end bearings, to add more security factor). This is also the reason why there's a damper fitted at the b2xx -series engines at the crank pulley. It's there to minimize all the possible vibrations of the crank.

But even so, many people have even used aluminium crank pulleys with b2xx -series cranks without any problems so I think it's not as big of a problem in the reality in normal use.

All the best, Alex.

[FREJ]

Oh alf! Good to here that you have found the problem! 

And good info from Volvo 300 Mania!

Regards
Frej